INJA LABRADOODLES

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We know you are madly in love with your new ‘Oodle’…. they are a bundle of Joy!

Below we have provided some documentation to help you make the Oodle journey as happy as can be.

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Congratulations on your beautiful bundle of Inja Love…..

Both the sire and the dam of your puppy have been X-rayed for Hips, Elbows and have DNA checks. So, we have taken the best care of matching the perfect mum and dad, to give you the best DNA makeup – in coat, health, and temperament. We have also spent the past 8 weeks giving your pup the best start in life – the best food, the best care, awesome experiences and the most love.

To be direct – how you act over the next few weeks will determine how your puppy behaves going forward! I trust you will do the best job and that you will continue to nurture these Inja Labradoodles so that they grow up to be the most amazing, polite, well behaved & loved dogs. I intend for the Inja Labradoodle to be the most sought-after pup; I have set them up to be that …… the rest is now up to you. I hereby entrust my Inja to you!

The aim of these notes is not to intimidate you – but they are intended to teach your puppy to respect you and your family and friends. It is vital that you give your puppy clearly defined boundaries from the moment you get it so that they do not grow to be confused about their position in your family and the world in general. Canines are “Pack Animals” and will look to you (the adults) as their pack leader — it is important to guide and teach your new puppy when young so you will have a well socialised and mannered family member for many years to come.

The eight to eleven-week period is also known as the FEAR-IMPRINT PERIOD. If, at this time, the puppy experiences trauma or fright, has a bad experience or is confused about what it needs to do – these experiences will become so deep-rooted that it will be difficult to eradicate it later.

You should be VERY particular about what experiences it has and the lessons it learns in these first few weeks.

Socialization and guided play and activity during the most impressionable period of your puppy’s life is VITAL. It is therefore best to teach your puppy right from wrong at this early age – all contact with humans, including strangers, other animals, noises etc., should be pleasurable experiences. You should avoid reprimanding the puppy as much as possible and should avoid physical punishment of any kind. It is much better to encourage and reward correct behaviour from the start. Remember – your pup is still a baby and it needs to learn good behaviours from you.

I have included lots of links (I find it easier to listen rather than read!!!) to more info and to a trainer ZAK George who’s videos are free worldwide & I like his approach to training.

Lastly – enjoy our Inja. I am so excited to hear about your pup, to get lots of photos so I can see how they are doing. I am also beyond honoured to have bred them for you as I know the joy you are about to experience.

I do look forward to seeing them again soon & please always remember – I am here to help, ALWAYS!

Regards
Taryn

USEFUL INFORMATION:

So, what will the next 48 hours look like
  • A new puppy is just like an inquisitive toddler, so you must keep a watchful eye!!!!
  • Set out boundaries e.g.: Decide where you puppy will sleep now and when he/she is fully-grown. It is unfair to let the puppy sleep in your bedroom or some part of the house while it is little and cuddly, but not allowed in when it is fully- grown.
  • The change of environment to a new home and the associated stress can result in a runny tummy.
  • For the first night place a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel in pup’s bed – it will settle more easily.
    VIDEO: The First 36 Hours
    VIDEO: First Day Home My New Puppy
Puppy Proof your Home

Ah, the joys of welcoming a new puppy into your home! But before you do, it’s important to puppy-proof your house. Think of it as preparing for a tiny, four-legged tornado to come through and wreak havoc.

Start by taking a stroll around your property, inside and out, and remove anything that could potentially cause trouble. You know, like that vase your mother-in-law gave you that you’ve always secretly hated. Small objects that can be swallowed should be put away, unless you want to be fishing them out of your pup’s poop later.

If you have stairs, barricade them. Sure, your puppy might be able to climb them now, but all that joint and hip stress will come back to bite you both in the future. And speaking of bites, keep computer cables and extension cords out of reach unless you want your pooch to develop a taste for electricity.

Make sure your yard is fully fenced and secure, unless you want your little furball to take off on a wild adventure. Oh, and take down any drowning risks, like buckets of water. Your pup might love splashing around, but it’s not worth the risk.

Lastly, be careful what your pup puts in its mouth. Certain foods like avocados, chocolate, and onion can be poisonous. And as tempting as it may be to share your gum or candy with your pup, anything with xylitol (that’s artificial sweetener to you) is a big no-no. We found an extensive list here 

  • Move poisonous plants
  • Look at things from a puppy “point of view” and remove any hazardous items eg hanging cords, kids’ toys
  • Make sure all cleaners, polishes, insecticide, rodent poisons, ant poison, etc have been left above “puppy level”.
  • Make sure they cannot fall off something high or fall downstairs.
  • Make small children sit when they play with puppies.

So, go forth and puppy-proof like a pro. Your sanity, and your pup’s safety, will thank you.

Equipment you will need
  • Food
  • Food & water bowls
  • A Crate & bed / blankets
  • You may consider a baby gate, should you wish for the puppy to stay within the limits of the house as nominated by you. Avoid ones with horizontal bars – some pups will simply climb over that!
  • Safe, Appropriate Toys to chew on – if it fits in the pup’s mouth too easily – it is too small. Perhaps think simply: an empty plastic drink bottle filled with treats is very entertaining! An old sock, with a tennis ball tied into the toe, or old socks tied together, a plastic water bottle, a box, a milk bottle with a piece of fabric tied to it.
  • Grooming gear
  • Collar, lead & a travel harness.
FOOD & FEEDING (you are what you eat!)

Top Tips:

  • Feed at irregular times so that the puppy is not expecting or anticipating eating at any set time.
  • Feed in fun ways – in toys / sprinkle on the grass/ Freeze biscuits in ice cubes/ in a kong i.e. make your dog work for his food. It entertains & stimulates them.

Your puppy has been eating Hypro Puppy – Turkey & Lamb. If you intend to change to something just introduce that new something slowly/gradually over a few days to avoid runny tummies. Feed as per bag instructions.

My pup has a runny tummy.... that is OK!

Most puppies will develop a runny tummy at some stage, due to change of environment and associated stress. If this happens commence feeding with unrinsed boiled rice with some cooked (poached) chicken for the first few days, incorporating some grated cheese and raw egg yolk also.

Once you are confident there is no runny tummy (once stools become firm) you can begin to add dry food again – very slowly – 2 or 3 teaspoons added at each meal ; until you have less rice mix, and more dry food. This allows the sensitive tummy to adjust slowly. If at any point the stools revert and become runny again – just repeat the process. This phase WILL pass.

Adding goats’ milk at this time can also help – it is fantastic probiotic. Plain yoghurt is also fantastic.

You are what you eat – this is so true for our pets. Please do not allow your pet to become overweight – this can lead to heart disease, kidney problems, bone problems. Remember treats for part of their daily calorie intake.

The number of calories your dog consumes, especially from 3 to 10 months of age, can have a significant impact on whether a puppy might develop certain diseases. High calorie, high carbohydrate diets can cause pups frame growth that is too fast for the cartilage in the body to keep up with, especially in large breed pups. This will cause joint issues.

EXERCISE & PLAY - puppies, like babies, should receive age appropriate exercise

Ensure that your puppy is not dropped & never allow your puppy to jump from beds, couches, out of the car. The impact of falling on growing bones could be detrimental.

  • Children should be supervised when playing with puppies whilst boundaries are still being established.
  • Short walks on a lead for 15 beginning at 8 weeks of age when your puppy arrives. Exercising your puppy is important but should be limited to small amounts in the early months
  • Puppies should be allowed to play, or stop playing, at will. Be realistic of your expectation on how much they can play. Like toddlers – they will play forever if they are not told to rest a bit! It is important they learn that playdates end; and that there is a time to go “home” i.e. to their haven!
  • Puppies need a lot of rest and a confined space is recommended, such as a crate — it becomes their haven.

Socialise, but be selective with the environment in which pup does that. You can take your puppy out from 8 weeks BUT please ensure that if you have contact with other dogs that they are vaccinated and that you KNOW ARE FRIENDLY . We recommend you avoid public dog parks until 10 days after the 3rd vaccination when the puppy is fully covered.

HIPS & JOINTS - They are little, let them grow and develop stamina properly

Maybe a good start to this would be for me to ask if you would let your toddler run 1km without stopping or slip and fall around on a slippery floor, or jump out of a tree? Same goes for pups – please protect their hips and joints whilst they are young!

Your puppy needs exercise to develop properly, just remember they are babies at 10 weeks. They only become a young adult at one (1) year. Do not expect a baby to do what a young adult can.

Whilst we have done all we can to ensure good DNA/Genes in that your pup’s parents have great hip scores and your pup has great blood lines – that does not mean they are bullet proof. You need to look after their hips & joints. They are after all miracles of nature!

 

  • Avoid activities that require your pet to jump or suddenly change direction until the puppy is at least 1 year old and then it should be kept in mind that you need to build up the dog’s stamina slowly over time. After 1
    activity like running and swimming are good for exercise – the goal is to maintain good muscle mass.
  • ALL joints, bones, muscles, and ligaments are at risk of injury if a puppy is encouraged or forced to repeat the same motion over and over for any extended periods of time e.g. ball chasing and jumping, very long walks at a constant pace, trottng for a long distance, excessive stair or hill climbing and slippery floors inside the home. If done in moderation, these things can be safe and beneficial but if done in excess, they have the potential to damage their growing bodies.
INVEST TIME IN TRAINING - they have had the best start... it is all in your hands now!

I know time is so precious for us all; but I cannot urge you enough to invest in the time you spend to train your pup. It does take time and does extend beyond just teaching them to sit for dinner or do a high five. For example

  • You cannot expect your pup to sit quietly next to your family on the beach and be happy doing that – if you have not taught him that expectation
  • You cannot expect your dog not to jump on people when they arrive at your house – unless you have taught him to sit until you tell him otherwise.

Consider what behaviour you want and work on it – the outcome is all going to be up to you – not the pup.

Look only for trainers that use Positive reinforcement methods. Reward the correct behaviours, do not just scald the bad behaviour. Dogs are experts at reading our body language and your pup will quickly learn to ‘read’ you! It is best to be calm and relaxed when you are teaching the puppy, as learning takes place much faster when there is no stress involved (on either side!).

Try to control your voice, do not use a loud harsh voice to communicate what you want your dog to do, remember that your dog does not speak our language but understands our tone of voice very well. (Which is why most dogs will cower when yelled at for elimination in the house, they are reacting to your tone of voice not the deed).

Try not to discipline your dog for misbehaving, do not get angry, do not shout at him, or hit him. This usually aggravates the problem, instead simply ignore puppy, in other words there will be no feedback to the puppy when he is misbehaving. Only good behaviour earns praise and interaction.

I can recommend Polite Paws – they are doing online classes at present.

There is so much info online too: here is a like to start you off 

CRATE TRAINING - create a haven for your pup

Your pup has been sleeping in a crate since 5-week-old.

From my personal experience – be it taking our dog to a groomer, to the vet; as well as through guests I have at KurrajongOodles – I see the benefit of crate training repeatedly.

If you have young kids, are busy or have other dogs – I feel it is especially helpful as the pup has a place to “chill” on its own, so:

  • Have their crate ready for them when they arrive home. The crate should be big enough for your dog to sleep in, to stand up and to turn around if need be
  • Have pups bedding (or blanket in the beginning) ready in there. A nice spoil would be a hot water bottle on the first few night as remember until now they have had siblings to snuggle against
  • You might put some treats (cheese is great – not too much) /kibble and toys in the crate the first few times – just to allow them to associate it as a happy place.
    WATCH VIDEO
  • Next morning you will find the crate may be soiled – this will stop after a few nights when the puppy figures out, they must sleep in there…they will be “Crate Trained” in a marrer of days.
  • The crate will become a place of comfort and rest, and you will find that your puppy will begin to use the crate for naps during the day of his/her own accord.
  • Although the crate is intended for night-time, you can also use it for an hour or so if you are going out as it is best to know the puppy is safe.
  • You can leave the crate open when you are home and the puppy can come and go as he pleases. You might place some food or toys inside the crate during the day and the puppy learns that the crate is a secure and relaxing place to be.

I found this link to be helpful.

Something else to consider is crates do not have to be forever. What I mean by this is that I do not use crates for my dogs every day anymore. But, when I do need it, for example when we travel in the car, they stay at the groomer or at the vet , if we go away camping and I want them to be safe in the evening or if I need someone else to look after my dogs. I know they are safe and happy in their space.

WORMING & Ticks

Your pup has had:

  • Drontal pup at 2, 4 & 6 weeks
  • Milbemax for small dogs & puppies at 8 weeks
  • C5 Vaccination at 8 weeks

If you are in a High-risk tick area – we can give pup Nextguard Spectra at 8 weeks. This is not standard and will be add to your final invoice.

Please start you own monthly treatment for heartworm /fleas etc at 12 weeks

A suggestion of what to use …. but always chat to your local vet to get their opinion too

  • PET PUPS – Nextguard Spectra. Safe for pups at 8 weeks & covers ticks, worms, heartworm & fleas

All BREEDING PUPS must use Sentinal & Bravecto

In addition to medications – daily tick checks are good. When you cuddle your pet, have a good feel of the coat for ticks – all over! Ticks can cause illness and death in a relatively short time.

VIDEO: Five signs your dog might have a tick

TOILET TRAINING - I read that puppies toilet about 14-16 times a day! Thank goodness they grow up

Your pup has been trained to toilet on a grass mat – with the anticipation that try will use the outside grass to toilet on ultimately. They understand the concept of there being a place to toilet.

House training your puppy can be easy and effective if you dedicate the necessary time and patience. A successful plan includes supervision, confinement, encouragement, and praise.

  • Take your pup to the toilet after eating, sleeping, and playing and every hour in between. As they get older and their bladder strengths -this clearly will become less frequent.
  • Take your pup to the designated area of the yard where you want it to eliminate. Try to go the same way every time – out the laundry door, through the doggie door etc.
  • Find a word you will use e.g. “wee-wee”, “toilet”, or whatever you wish will teach your puppy to eliminate on command.
  • When it does what it is meant to do – praise like you have never praised before – lots of well-done in a happy voice with lots of cuddles. By being consistent and ALWAYS accompanying your puppy outside – be it in rain, hail, or shine – it will not take very long before this exercise is learned.
  • Should your puppy make a mistake inside, do not punish it. Let the pup outside and clean up whilst the puppy is not looking. Your puppy is learning and must not be punished for something it does not know how to do yet.

WATCH VIDEO

Extra Reading
  • Visit this website for more information about welcoming a puppy into your family

Inja Puppy Pack

Information and tips for your life with a Labradoodle

Becoming a Carer Family for Inja

Information about how this works

Register your Puppy

Add your puppy to NSW Pet Registry database